A few weeks ago a friend of mine asked me to sew a facemask for him so he could enter his office. He's an essential worker, but not medical or food related. He sent me the CDC pattern and instructions which were highly problematic. They only offered one size which was far too small for his face.
So I did some research and made a couple more prototypes until we settled on one he really likes. I like this version too, because I find it the easiest to sew and fit. Also he definitely wanted elastic loops for around the ears.
I suggested I sew the masks out of an old dress shirt of his, and he happily donated a couple. I thought that way he would have a more manly look than my quilting fabric. More importantly, it has a tighter weave than quilting fabric.
We found the best fit for my friend was to start with rectangles that measured 12"x7". I was able to cut 8 of those squares from each dress shirt, there happen to be three sets of two here.
Because I want to create pockets, inside of which disposable non-fusible interfacing can be inserted and later removed, I stitched a zig-zag stitch on one long side of each fabric piece. This will reduce any fraying when the facemask is tossed into the washing machine. (As you can see in the photo, I didn't actually sew end to end, because the edges will be caught in seams, but it doesn't matter whether this is done or the entire length is zigzag stitched.)
Then I laid them on top of each other, zigzag side at the top.
Then I secured with pins.
Although it is possible to sew one long seam around, I prefer the following method, which I think better strengthens the corners. I sewed a seam on the long side opposite the zigzag stitching. I made 1/4" seams and backstitched at the beginning and the end of this seam, and each of the following seams.
Then I stitched a seam on one short side.
And then the other.
Then I sewed a seam in the left corner.
Finally I sewed a seam in the right corner.
Here is a close up of the backstitching. If this is your first time using a sewing machine, backstitching is where you sew in reverse a few stitches, and then forward again...to secure the stitches.
Then I carefully clipped those corners, without cutting into the seam itself.
Here you can see each of the clipped corners. This will allow the corners to be neater when this is turned inside out. And so that is the next step, to turn inside out. (That is why the one side was zigzag stitched.)
Press. The zigzagged edge should be turned under, which will be easy to do since the fabric will pretty much do that naturally as a result of the seams inside the pocket.
Here you can see the pocket. That is the zigzagged edge near the tip of the scissors. I will not sew this closed. This is to allow the insertion of a non-fusible woven interfacing (I've read this can be a paper towel, kleenex, coffee filter...) because the microbes are so tiny that they can still get through woven cotton. Many medical professionals have advised making this pocket to allow for a third layer to be inserted. The value of a non-woven interfacing is that hopefully microbes can't sneak in through that non-woven. (We're still learning a lot about this as we go, aren't we?)
Next I pleated the fabric into 3 parts. This was difficult, because odd numbers are more difficult to divide than even. So I just kept fiddling with it until it seemed functional. I secured the layers with pins.
Now both sides are secured with pins and ready for the sewing machine.
I sewed each edge down, just to secure the pleats. Lots of directions refer to this as topstitching, which often uses a longer stitch. I didn't worry about that with this project. I just kept the same stitch size throughout. It doesn't hurt anything.
Then I used 1/4" elastic which is so much easier to sew under a sewing machine, than 1/8". My friend has no problem with this behind his ears. And with a more secure stitch he doesn't have to worry about the 1/8" popping. The 6" length recommendation by the CDC was way too small for my friend, as was the teeny tiny fabric recommendation the CDC had. For him we found that 9" long was perfect.
I rolled the edges of the mask over the elastic and pinned in place. (Most often in garment sewing, we sew the seam first then insert the elastic, which is how the CDC recommended, but I found this so much easier.) It also allows for fine tuning the fit to the person who will be wearing the mask.
Because I have a Pfaff sewing machine, sewing this thickness is simple. Pfaffs have an integrated dual feed, which easily handles thickness while keeping everything secure without slippage. I just took my time and it sewed easily.
Now this part gets really fiddly. I just took my time. I overlapped the ends of the elastic, about an inch. Then I carefully placed underneath the foot and dropped the foot. When I had everything lined up, I sewed down the length of the two layers of elastic.
Then I trimmed the threads.
Then I pulled the stitched ends into the newly formed casing. And I finished trimming the threads.
Front Finis!
Back Finis!
And it's a perfect fit for my friend!
For myself I'm using a bandana and hair elastics which I keep stored in a baggie in my tote bag. I've been able to practice social distancing, and my son does all the food shopping. So I haven't used mine yet. My son uses a bandana, tied snugly like he was a cowboy.
Well I never thought in a million years I'd ever sew a facemask. I have a friend in Oregon whose hospital supplied kits with special n95 rated fabrics and such for seamstresses to sew, which I thought was great, since medical staff need the really good stuff!
