Wednesday, December 11, 2013

1902 Edwardian Muff and Capelet

My latest historical garment/accessory was driven by the latest challenge from the Historical Sew Fortnightly. The challenge was to use one metre of fabric. What I really wanted to do was to handsew an 18th century lace cap, but I don't think I have the skillset to sew lace fabric to lace fabric. I am also working on clearing out my fabric stash. I had some faux fur that I had used to edge my 18th century cloak, that I wanted to use up. I dug it out and measured it. It was well over a metre, so I cut off a little more than 39". The rest will be used to edge other cloaks.


Then I pulled out a modern cloak pattern that I don't ever plan to use.  I pinned that to my dress form and cut away the parts I did not want, until I got the look I wanted. Then I unpinned that and pinned it to  my metre of faux fur to cut out my capelet. I left a bit more around the neck edge for a stand up collar.


With my extra fabric, I decided to make a matching muff cover.  I pulled out my muff from challenge #7 Accessory Challenge (which got a bit rumpled and messed up in the snow), to know how much fabric I would need to cut.


I had to cut two recetangles which I had to piece together, to form the tube to go over the inner stuffed muff form.  After pinning it I set it aside to finish later.


The capelet pinned to the dress form...




This much left over. Hmmm, I decided to use this challenge of one metre as completely as I could. Could I use the entire one metre? 


I found this fashion plate from December 1902 of a gorgeous full length cape with trim and 3 collars.  I decided to replicate it as much as one metre would allow.  The top tier was basically the same as my capelet, minus the trim, albeit a bit longer. I didn't want to waste fabric by shortening it now.  I wouldn't have enough fabric for trim, but I would for some extra collars!


I grabbed some scrap paper to whip up a quick drafting of a collar.  I cut out one collar.


Then I overlapped the pieces of "pattern" until it met edge to edge of the remaining fabric, and I cut out another collar.


I sewed around 3 edges, right sides together, and turned them right side out.  Then I basted the bottom edges. I did that to each.  Then I layed the shorter one on top of the longer one, centering them and basted those together on the bottom edge. Then I pinned that to the capelet and fiddled until I liked it, then I handsewed them to the capelet.


In the above photo, I have pulled down the outer 2 collar layers I cut out.  All that is standing is the original extra fabric left as part of the capelet.


In the above photo, I pulled up the inner collar.


Now I've pulled up the outer collar.


Now I've fiddled with it a bit, pulling the front edges angled towards the front, but leaving the backs sticking up, a bit like the fashion plate.


My capelet was done!  I handsewed my muff cover and assembled those pieces.  The muff was done! The above photo shows all that was left from my 1 metre of faux fur. 


The muff is sitting on the edge of the credenza.  It had snowed this week so I decided to use the snow on the deck as part of the appropriate setting for a faux fur muff and capelet. We talked of doing a photo shoot outdoors, but long story short, it didn't work out. I hope to do one this Saturday!


This covered my basic muff form.  It looks much better when my hands are stuffed inside.   I used black satin ribbon for the ties. They weren't much longer than the remaining faux fur after cutting the last collar.




Following are close ups and full shots of the capelet with the Edwardian skirt and 1912 white batiste and lace blouse that I recently made! 











Photos of my wearing the muff and capelet are here.

Now for the HSF details:

HSF  2013

The Challenge: #25 One Metre

Fabric: faux fur

Pattern: self-drafted

Year: Edwardian

Notions: thread

How historically accurate is it? not sure, but based on extant cloaks and muffs

Hours to complete: 8

First worn: history presentation

Total cost: free, fabric from stash

No comments:

Post a Comment