For my daughter's upcoming birthday I handsewed something she has been looking forward to. Last summer while I was choosing for myself a lovely 18th century pink floral on blue print at the Mary Dickenson Store in Colonial Williamsburg, my daughter decided she'd love to have some too. The last of her birthday money from last year would be just enough for an 18th century jacket.
For this birthday, while she was busy with college, I've been handsewing it. I took measurements off her previous lavender jacket I had sewn. I used a drafted pattern from Costume Close-Up that Rebecca of A Fashionable Frolick had gifted us years ago when we first met and I was first starting our colonial wardrobe. That pattern practically fits my daughter "as is." I used all period techniques from Costume Close-Up, which includes using an ingenious 18th century method that involves the sewing of 3 panels of fabric at the same time, 2 of the fashion layer and one of the linen lining. This is detailed in Costume Close-Up and is quite fun to do! I took a picture of how it looked with 3 layers completely sewn with one stitch, but unfortunately I accidentally took a picture of the inside of Costume Close-Up too. Oops. Anyway I highly recommend this book by Colonial Williamsburg's Linda Baumgarten because it is full of many details as to the construction of 18th century garments. I tend to learn in layers and I think I nailed the bodice portion. However for the sleeves I resorted to typical modern type hand sewing, since I felt a bit overwhelmed with life at the moment and couldn't quite conceptualize the proper method. Therefore this garment is almost nailed in technique, but you'll see from the photos that the inside of the sleeve is more 21st century than 18th.
Here are those 3 in 1 stitches from the outside...
I love handsewing. I sewed this while watching the Olympics.
I modeled the jacket with my petticoat. When we bought this my daughter said she'd like a rose colored petticoat to go with this jacket. We need to look for that color fabric. However I took that cue and purchased rose colored grosgrain ribbon for the lacing.
Now for the HSF details:
The Challenge: #5 Bodice
Fabric: cotton reproduction print from Colonial Williamsburg
Pattern: drafted from Costume Close-Up
Notions: thread, ribbon
How historically accurate is it? highly accurate, 100% hand sewn
Hours to complete: lots
First worn: Colonial Williamsburg
Total cost: $20