Wednesday, December 11, 2013

1902 Edwardian Muff and Capelet

My latest historical garment/accessory was driven by the latest challenge from the Historical Sew Fortnightly. The challenge was to use one metre of fabric. What I really wanted to do was to handsew an 18th century lace cap, but I don't think I have the skillset to sew lace fabric to lace fabric. I am also working on clearing out my fabric stash. I had some faux fur that I had used to edge my 18th century cloak, that I wanted to use up. I dug it out and measured it. It was well over a metre, so I cut off a little more than 39". The rest will be used to edge other cloaks.

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Then I pulled out a modern cloak pattern that I don't ever plan to use.  I pinned that to my dress form and cut away the parts I did not want, until I got the look I wanted. Then I unpinned that and pinned it to  my metre of faux fur to cut out my capelet. I left a bit more around the neck edge for a stand up collar.

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With my extra fabric, I decided to make a matching muff cover.  I pulled out my muff from challenge #7 Accessory Challenge (which got a bit rumpled and messed up in the snow), to know how much fabric I would need to cut.

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I had to cut two recetangles which I had to piece together, to form the tube to go over the inner stuffed muff form.  After pinning it I set it aside to finish later.

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The capelet pinned to the dress form...

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This much left over. Hmmm, I decided to use this challenge of one metre as completely as I could. Could I use the entire one metre? 

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I found this fashion plate from December 1902 of a gorgeous full length cape with trim and 3 collars.  I decided to replicate it as much as one metre would allow.  The top tier was basically the same as my capelet, minus the trim, albeit a bit longer. I didn't want to waste fabric by shortening it now.  I wouldn't have enough fabric for trim, but I would for some extra collars!

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I grabbed some scrap paper to whip up a quick drafting of a collar.  I cut out one collar.

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Then I overlapped the pieces of "pattern" until it met edge to edge of the remaining fabric, and I cut out another collar.

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I sewed around 3 edges, right sides together, and turned them right side out.  Then I basted the bottom edges. I did that to each.  Then I layed the shorter one on top of the longer one, centering them and basted those together on the bottom edge. Then I pinned that to the capelet and fiddled until I liked it, then I handsewed them to the capelet.

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In the above photo, I have pulled down the outer 2 collar layers I cut out.  All that is standing is the original extra fabric left as part of the capelet.

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In the above photo, I pulled up the inner collar.

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Now I've pulled up the outer collar.

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Now I've fiddled with it a bit, pulling the front edges angled towards the front, but leaving the backs sticking up, a bit like the fashion plate.


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My capelet was done!  I handsewed my muff cover and assembled those pieces.  The muff was done! The above photo shows all that was left from my 1 metre of faux fur. 

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The muff is sitting on the edge of the credenza.  It had snowed this week so I decided to use the snow on the deck as part of the appropriate setting for a faux fur muff and capelet. We talked of doing a photo shoot outdoors, but long story short, it didn't work out. I hope to do one this Saturday!

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This covered my basic muff form.  It looks much better when my hands are stuffed inside.   I used black satin ribbon for the ties. They weren't much longer than the remaining faux fur after cutting the last collar.

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Following are close ups and full shots of the capelet with the Edwardian skirt and 1912 white batiste and lace blouse that I recently made! 

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Photos of my wearing the muff and capelet are here.

Now for the HSF details:

HSF  2013

The Challenge: #25 One Metre

Fabric: faux fur

Pattern: self-drafted

Year: Edwardian

Notions: thread

How historically accurate is it? not sure, but based on extant cloaks and muffs

Hours to complete: 8

First worn: history presentation

Total cost: free, fabric from stash

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